Day 2: Ellis Island, Statue of Liberty, 9/11 Memorial, Little Italy
It was time to wake up. I didn't sleep well, wanted to sleep longer but couldn’t. The bathroom mirror revealed dark brown colorations under my eyes, noticeable with my glasses off. That was what I got every time I didn't get enough sleep. We had to get dressed and head to Tick Tock Diner for breakfast. (Full details of the dining experience is found in Addendum – Complimentary Dining.)
After breakfast, we went to the CVS Pharmacy across the street from the hotel. A gallon of water cost $5.29. I took a photo of the security cameras mounted above the CVS sign. Madison Square Gardens was a block further and across the street from the Pharmacy. In the opposite direction, the Empire State Building was within view.
At 8:30am, the group assembled at the lobby. Tour Guide Joe was a trooper in following up with me regarding the missing voucher for Day 4 lunch. I filled out what I wanted and he took care of the rest. We tested our radios, confirming his voice being heard through our listening devices. Assistant Jeff handed out an OMNY card to each of us. When everything was all set, Joe quoted what his dad used to say, "Let's roll, souls!"
We walked about 5 minutes to 34th Street–Herald Square station. It was just before 9am, the morning rush hour was waning, and the train wasn’t as crowded. Some of us found available seats. It was a 20-minute ride to South Ferry station. After alighting, we assembled in front of Battery Park for Joe to confirm the group reservation, and then went in. The visitor screening reminded me of airport screening. Even though photography wasn't allowed, I managed to squeeze in a photo.
We waited in a long line to board the ferry to Liberty Island. The weather wasn’t as hot as it became later. As the ferry approached the island, I went up to the third level to take some photos. There was a throng of people on the starboard side doing the same thing.
At Liberty Island, Joe did a head count and then we proceeded towards the Statue of Liberty Museum. Lunch vouchers were handed out for use at either Crown Cafe in Liberty Island or Ellis Cafe in Ellis Island – Jeff recommended the latter because the food was better. We were free to take as long as we liked so long as we boarded the 3:10pm ferry to meet with the group at 3:30pm by the Memorial in Battery Park.
The Museum first opened on May 16, 2019. Before that, there was nothing. We know. We were there in September 2008. Inside the museum, to the left of the front desk was a line to the Immersive Theater. We made a right to where the exhibits were, and started with a section called the Inspiration Gallery. Several kiosks allowed visitors to take a photo and add pictorial themes (up to seven) to create a unique portrait. Within minutes, the portrait displayed on the wide Becoming Liberty screen behind the kiosks, assembled alongside other portraits on opposite ends. From there, the multitude of portraits move towards the center, shrinking to the size of postage stamps while doing do, and arranged into collages taking the shape of Lady Liberty.
Lady Liberty's original torch was located to the right of Becoming Liberty. A full-size replica of her face was behind it. Physical contact was permitted. I had a picture of me taken with my hands and left cheek resting on her right cheek. It was an intimate moment.
The Engagement Gallery took visitors "behind the scenes" to the construction and erection of Lady Liberty. The exhibit showing the sculpting and building was a considerable walk, so I took a video. Collage of the clip is shown in above right photo. The clip itself is in the slideshow video below right.
Finally, we went into the Immersive Theater for the film Liberty Enlightening the World. Narrated by Diane Sawyer and co-sponsored by the Walt Disney Company, it was presented in three wide screens – one for each act, 3:1 aspect ratio would be my guess – and required the audience to get up after the first screen, take their seats at the second screen, and move again to the third screen. Frankly, the presentation did not require three screens when the distance from each screen was not far enough for optimum viewing.
We continued with a stroll down the walkway that surrounded the perimeter of Liberty Island, marveling at the view of Manhattan on one side and Lady Liberty on the other. What we didn't appreciate were the airplanes flying overhead with banners carrying messages visitors didn't need to see.
The one above was tame compared to the others that were religious and reeked of Bible-thumping – typical fear-mongering of end times, and condemnation to Hell if you don't repent and believe in (Jesus) Christ. I was reminded yet again of a sad truth: people don't hate Christians because of Christ, people hate Christ because of Christians.
I took additional pictures of Lady Liberty. You can barely see the people at the pedestal. Accessing the pedestal and the crown requires advanced reservations, with the crown requiring at least 6 months. So we moved on to Ellis Island.
The Ellis Island National Museum of Immigration was bigger than I remembered it back in 2008. Same building, but with (lots) more content. We proceeded immediately to Ellis Cafe where I had Italian sub and Coke, Wife had turkey sandwich and pink lemonade, and son had cheeseburger with fries and bottled water.
The first floor exhibits were devoted to immigration in recent history (i.e. in the last century). There was the "America Family Immigration History Center – Record Search" area where visitors could trace their lineage (if it existed). It was of no value or interest to us. As far as we know, I'm the first in my family to settle in the United States, and Wife is descended from slaves.
We moved on to the "Citizenship Gallery" and "New Eras of Immigration" rooms, easily the most impressive of all the rooms (to me) given the current political climate regarding immigration. Loads of prose and photos on walls, numerous kiosks of personal stories (four per kiosk), and exhibits showing the immigration journey by sections (L-M-A-S-B, total of five) just to name a few. There was a console where kids could take the Citizenship Test (I took one for mine, Son at 2nd grade could take the test and pass; it was that easy), and another where visitors could filter citizens by demography (ethnicity, country of origin, gender, etc.).
We then went up to the second floor for the "Peak Immigration Years" and "Through America's Gate" rooms on the second floor. It was good but not as impressive. The third floor had natural lighting from the ceiling windows, but the exhibits on this floor got none of it. Instead, they were enclosed in glass walls with lighting that was dimmer within than without. Every time I tried to take a picture, my reflection appeared on the walls. The only photos I took while on this floor was of the Dormitory Room and the Great Hall. The Bob Hope Memorial Library was available by appointment only.
First, the Dormitory Room. Located in an isolated room along the narrow corridor, it was easy to miss. (It's that small circle in the Directory.) There was something eerily familiar about it.
Side-by-side comparison
Next, the Great Hall. It was huge. Epic huge. Of the photos below, the one on the left was taken from the west side on the second floor, while the one on the right was taken from the east side on the third floor.
There was a TV miniseries called Ellis Island. Released in 1984 and based on the titular novel by Fred Mustard Stewart, it was notable (touted) for being the final screen appearance of Richard Burton. (He died two weeks after the last day of filming.) I have neither seen it nor making it a priority to do so. There are many reasons but I'll give one: the four lead characters – a Russian Jew, a Italian and two Irish – all non-WASP immigrants, are played by WASP actors (Peter Riegert, Gregory Paul Martin, Judi Bowker and Alice Krige respectively). That isn't enough. The opening sequence soundtrack screams "WASP". It would be interesting to see how the titular island and the immigration process are depicted. But again, I'm not making it a priority to watch Ellis Island at any time.
Even though I never passed through Ellis Island to come to the United States, I felt a personal connection with the experiences of the unnamed immigrants through exhibits of their stories, photos and possessions representing their struggles. I felt lost and isolated in a culture that was a major paradigm shift. Everything that was important to me on Krypton no longer felt important in the New World. This scene fully captures that feeling.
It was 2:45pm when we went to go wait for the ferry. The 3:10pm ferry was full as more people were boarding than disembarking. The next available one came at 3:30pm – the time we were supposed to meet with the group at Battery Park. I noticed other families from our group waiting as well. The wait was a near-hour long and a real pain. People were experiencing heat exhaustion around me, particularly a toddler and a plus-sized woman. The latter was pressing against me, potentially fainting. After we boarded, we went to the second level. I sat down on the floor against a wall.
The New York Stock Exchange is shown in the above middle photo, and its addition building shown in the above right photo. According to Joe, Trinity Church – located westward on Wall St across Broadway – owned the land that the New York Stock Exchange buildings sat on, among other property holdings. We continued from there on until we reached the 9/11 Memorial.
World Trade Center South Tower
The waterfall for the South Tower section was undergoing maintenance, but the waterfall for the North Tower one was functioning. I took a video.
World Trade Center North Tower
The Memorial was awesome. When I looked at the names, the feeling went from awesome to solemn. All those names, all those deaths... both World Trade Center buildings, the Pentagon, and United Airlines 93. I envisioned their fears, their cries at the moment their lives came to an end. "In what order were the names printed?" I wondered. We did not visit the Museum as it wasn't part of our program. Joe mentioned that he hadn't been there (yet) because the memories were too traumatic – he was near ground zero during 9/11.
As we were leaving Paesano's, a man from Umbertos Clam House – next door to Paesano's – came out to give Joe his business card. I don't having clams and seafood for dinner... so long as it is covered by the program (of course).
We continued on Mulberry Street until we reached Canal Street. Across this street – according to Joe – was Chinatown. We continued on Canal Street towards the train station three blocks down. Along the way, we saw African vendors peddling handbags, purses, sunglasses, wallets, watches, among other things. (Yes, the vendors were African-Americans. Their accents were unmistakable.) Some of them were pulling a cart containing more of these products. I did not know what brands were the products the imitation of. I was glad they didn't accost us to buy from them.
We arrived at the hotel at almost 8pm. Joe informed us to gather at the lobby at 8:30am the following morning. Back in the room, I tabulated the data from the Health apps of both phones, using the phone at 1% power to fill in the time gap when the other phone died. The result: 17,538 steps, 6.3 miles, 20 floors, 334 calories.
Ranking (from best to least)
Saw (a lot) more than in 2008. Being an immigrant, I felt a personal connection despite not passing through here. Impressed with "Citizenship Gallery", "New Eras of Immigration" and the Great Hall. Liked "Ellis Island Chronicles". Despite the large crowd, had no problem finding a table for lunch at Ellis Cafe.
2. Statue of Liberty Island & Museum
Huge improvement from 2008. Enjoyed using kiosk to create portrait to display on Becoming Liberty. Allowed to touch Lady Liberty's face. Engagement Gallery was more informative than Immersive Theater. However, access to statue's pedestal and crown wasn't included.
Had waterfall at South Tower section been functional, would have been placed this at #2. Both Memorial and Oculus were impressive. Seeing names of deceased gave me pause. Would like to come back and visit museum.
4. Little Italy
Didn't care for the area, but nice to visit if only once. Liked the food and service at Paesano's, but not the walk from Paesano's to train station.
It was a long day. My feet hurt.
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